Ответить Поиск Расширенный поиск. Сюда переносится если не удаляется всякий хлам, типо: Что-то у меня не але с двиглом - пихлом Последний раз редактировалось Valery Triumph Tigerвелосипед и Land Rover Defender. Отдохнул — отчитайся, лучшее слово — дело. Контактная информация пользователя Valery. Отправить личное сообщение Отправить email. Важное сообщение Скрыть сообщение Пожаловаться на это сообщение Информация. Бесплатная помощь по форуму. Помогите пожалуйста,нужна инструкция EVINRUDE BJ70PL4SDM года. DO NOT use oil designed for your weed whacker or chain saws as these AIR COOLED motors run a lot hotter than the water cooled outboards. The water cooled outboards require the specially designed TWC-3 oils. OK, Your Neighbor Brought You This Non-Running Ge: This section will deal basically with getting a motor running, and not fine tuning it, as that is covered on the "Normal Repairs" article. Here will be my suggestions as to where to look and in the order generally accepted. You are going to have to have at least the 3 main things functioning for you, they are all about equal in requirements. If the motor has an electric starter, we will cover that later, but for now, it is assumed on the first part of this section that the motor will pull over with the recoil starter, but will not start. I have had some use the words "will not pull or turn over". In my mind this would mean it is seized, not that it will not fire. The first law of trouble shooting is "NEVER ASSUME ANYTHING". Has someone else tried to repair it, and is so, what did they do? I suspect many of the used ones you see, especially on eBay or Craigs List may have been "repaired" by novices, or even experts with the outcome NOT BEING POSITIVE, so the owner gave up and is dumping his losses. This could have been the wrong parts installed, which many times if a part is purchased off eBay, the seller may not really know exactly what he has. The part may bolt onto your motor, but not function as designed. If they, the mechanic did not know what they were doing, are the wires even going to the right places? Are the ground wires making good connections? Is the motor just in need of TLC because of negligence on the previous owners lack of outboard motor maintenance knowledge or has it been abused?
And while on the subject of wiring, for a standard tiller operated motor wiring other than kill wires are pretty well laid out. I purchased one motor that was supposed to have just quit.
Usually this would mean that the problem would be spark related. Compression was 62 and With the head off, it was evident that this motor had been immersed in water in some way for a considerable length of time. Maybe not dunked in the lake, but my guess in the bilge of a boat in the back yard without a cover, rainwater filled up enough to get into this motor. With the head off, both cylinders were hosts to LOTS of rusty and carbony oil. This excessive amount of oil could not have gotten there from inside the motor, it had to be squirted into the spark plug holes trying to free it up. There was also evidence of the use of LOTS of starting fluid that had a red dye in it around the carburetor in apparent failed attempts to start it. The thermostat was missing also, why is any ones guess. The electric starter was rusted so badly that it was seized up to the point it was scrap. The lower unit had fish line around the prop shaft in front of the prop enough to cut the rear prop shaft seal out, there was NO oil in the gearcase and after flushing it with kerosene a couple of times there were metal filings along with brown rust in the bottom of the drain bucket. The driveshaft was also frozen into the pinion gear and could not be removed. The trolling idle screw assembly was missing. One transom clamp screw was almost there. The picture of this block with the head off is shown below. These are all clues that you will have to consider in being a outboard motor detective.
Sometimes the word "Detective" and "Mechanic" are closely related in cases like this. Think about this, if you still work for a living, consider the following: How many free days a year do you have? Of these left, how many will the weather cooperate and finally then will your motor run correctly or at all, or will you spend half the day or more trying to get it running while wishing you were on the water? Some people who own boats and motors may also be mechanically challenged. If they have tried to do anything to it without the slightest clue as to what they are doing and then bring it to you, are you up to the challenge? These are the people who should not be left alone with a dull knife or even a pencil sharpener. He ran it onto a sandbar the week after I sold it to him, ruining the water pump impeller faulty impeller-my fault. OK, I replaced it at no charge. Two weeks later it would not run right, but he could not explain the problem. I went fishing with him and on the river, mainly because he was fishing an area and for a specie that I wanted to learn it ran so bad that we anchored, and there on the water, I tore the carburetor apart, cleaned and re-adjusted it. Years later I had a similar experience but with a 10hp Johnson, the motor ran when I traded it to him. I had to later take it back for because he was afraid the motor would burn up since it was not peeing fully the pee hole tube became unconnected under the cowling. It was running good when I delivered it to him the second time. Then more problems, but this time it was the fuel pump going bad. Every time it was running fine when I delivered it to him. Again it came back, this time, my fault as apparently I did not push a points output wire down far enough into the timing plate and the flywheel wore through the wire insulation, grounding it out, killing the motor. Never pull any manual start motor till you wear blisters. You will only wear out your body, get frustrated, but also put wear the starter as well. OR you are doing something wrong. So, stop pulling, and do some research. AND ESPECIALLY ON THE OLDER MAGNETO IGNITION MOTORS, pull that rope starter as if you were mad at it. The faster the flywheel turns to generate spark, the greater the spark is created to the spark plug, and hence the easier it is to start. This article started out pertaining only to the OMC 9. However the principles are pretty much the same for most outboards, especially the older OMCs Johnson and Evinrudes. Then another list of known previous repairs, if possible. Then a check-off list of things you have checked, with an OK or possible need to re-check behind that.
The next step is diagnosis. Never start pulling parts off or apart till you have a good idea of what is wrong other than pulling the spark plugs. You can make things worse, then you will have multiple problems where you will not be sure which is actually the culprit. We can only guess what the problem is from here. You need to do the basic outboard motor health check. If new to you take numerous GOOD close-up photos of the wiring, fuel lines etc. Spark, adequate spark at the right time. Fuel and air in the correct amounts. Listed below is what is most likely if the carburetor and fuel pump check out good. The fuel line from the disconnect fitting to the pump has gotten hard and is leaking air. Solution is replace the line and use new small hose clamps on it. The fuel line from the tank to the engine has disconnect fittings on each end, Do you have it connected properly? There will be a large arrow on the primer bulb, this points to direction of the motor. Both of these quick connectors have neoprene O-Rings inside the connector where it slips over the fuel line studs on the tank and motor. These O rings in the fittings can be damaged, leaking causing a vacuum leak up to the motor. Solution is to remove and replace the O rings, however there are 3 major manufacturers of these quick connectors and they all use different O-Rings, along with the fact that most are not identified by any manufactures name maybe a code number that means nothing to you or me. Pull the fuel line off the carburetor and with the tank connected to the engine and pull the engine through. Fuel should come out of the line that went to the carburetor, indicating a good pump. If you are using an aftermarket tank, we know you are leaving the tank vent open, right? Or are you using the right fuel line? Yamaha connectors look the same as OMC, but the fuel stud is larger, creating a air leak. Before we get real carried away here, was the last gasoline used the ethanol type? Another thing, you should consider is finding out a bit about the motor that you are staring at BEFORE you start unbolting things.
Number one would be, are any spare parts available?? If not, you may be spinning your wheels, get it partly repaired only to find further needed parts are not available and now you have both time and money invested on scrap iron. A thing many do not realize is that some outboard motor manufacturers may have a higher grade and a lower grade line of motors. The lower grade may be the ones with fewer spare parts availability. The distinction can be only paint, electronics or fuel injection, with most of the other parts the same as corresponding motors. The understanding was that they were actually pretty good, though not really hot performers but performed fine as a second tier, "cheapout" image for the owners. This situation spooked Yamaha and OMC enough that they downgraded their own lines, removing oil injection and other items, so they, too, would have a cheaper second tier line. Yamaha had a different model designation for theirs also. Take a look at the overall motor, sometimes scratched paint can be deceptive, but if the owner had no pride in ownership even as to scratches, look farther. Pull the upper cowling off. Look underneath it for signs of oily residue. If the rings are bad, you very likely will see an oily film on the inside, especially near the carburetor intake as shown in the photo below. Has the fuel line rubber bulb became hardened over time to the point it is hard to squeeze? If so, you will need a new fuel line assembly. Beware of fuel tanks setting out in the rainy weather. Are there any little kids around, if so check inside the fuel tank for rocks, sticks and mud. With the shifting lever in neutral, give the twist grip handle a twist it, if there is a lot of slop here, you may not be able to maintain a throttle position setting without holding onto the handle all the time. With the older OMC motors from 74 to 85 that utilize the gearing on the throttle shaft, this takes a lot of time to cut plastic shims and to fit them to get proper tension if everything is worn. The 86 to OMC cable throttle type are not usually prone to this problem. You might find a gem that looks bad, but only needs spark plugs, clean fuel, but looks ragged, but the odds are not good in a case like this. Oily residue on the inside of the upper cowling should be a clue to something not exactly right. Evidence of an inoperative water pump impeller, look at the discoloration burned paint of the overheated head.
If they have not been recently replaced, are they black and oily or just a gray color? They will usually be slightly oily and possibly fouled if the motor is used mostly for trolling may not get warm enough to totally do good combustion since this motor uses an oil mix in the gasoline. If it is dry and a gray color, that is good. Spark plugs need to be gapped properly. Most are just fine out of the box, but in troubleshooting, check them first. I got caught in this once, guy brought a motor in, it ran at a idle fine, but speed it up to about mid throttle it would lope, miss-then restart repeatedly. The plugs were new so I did not look at them, but after tearing the carburetor apart 3 times, I finally found the plugs were gapped at about. You can clean them, the best is with a sandblaster. Then you can have a new set, clean the others for spares. You might consider vacuum packing them if for longer dry storage if you plan on keeping them on the boat. This will assure you that they are clean and dry when you to need to use them, especially if you are near saltwater. This a motor running, but lack of power is usually the result of only running on one cylinder. It is suggested to start it up, bring it to a fast idle and with a pair of insulated pliers, pull one spark plug boot at a time. The motor should be able to run on only one cylinder, so if you pull a plug and the motor dies, you know that the other cylinder was never firing or running was weak. Here for the OMC motors, I will make a distinction between magneto ignition points, condenser ignition and electronic ignition in relationship to spark plug types. It has been found on these pre s that by switching to NGK B6HS spark plugs and in the next higher heat range the fouled plugs go away and the engine runs better. OMC finally got this right when they went with Capacitor Discharge electronic ignition. If your spark plugs repeatedly foul you could have a combination of things happening. Check to see if the thermostat is still there, some people pull them out. If the thermostat is missing, and you are using it mostly for trolling in cooler climates, the motor is not getting hot enough for proper combustion. It might be a good idea to run Sea Foam thru it to decarb the piston and rings. Then for some reason, the recommended Champions plugs may foul out with very limited usage on the magneto ignition system. Normal gap settings are.
Use of non-inductive resistor type plugs on these motors can cause misfire and poor performance. You may be able to check for spark, by pulling the spark plug from the head, and reinserting it in the plug boot, then ground it, holding the metal plug body against some metal part of the motorwhile pulling the starter rope. Here, you need to have made a good connection of the spark plug to the motor, somewhere where the paint is not insulating your connection. It will not shock you, UNLESS you happen to touch the exact area of the spark jumping. However this spark may be hard to see if you are alone and in bright daylight plus having to pull the rope yourself AND look for the spark while the motor happens to be moving slightly. Have both spark plugs out also helps lower the compression. Here is where you may need the help of the wife or a fishing buddy. These testers are cheap and readily available from automotive stores. Another thing I would look at is the flywheel key sheared or semi-sheared? Here you can get spark, but it may not be timed correctly because the flywheel may have slightly slipped on the crankshaft, changing the spark timing. If everything else looks good, and it will not fire, this is the first and simplest thing to look at. If the motor is a magneto style ignition and everything looks OK, but will not start, look at the points breaker cam on the crankshaft. There should be a word on the top of this cam that says TOP. If you can not see this, maybe someone installed it upside down, which will surely effect the timing. These cams just slide onto the upper end of the crankshaft with the flywheel key being used for the proper alignment. However on the older motors, this word TOP may not be there, if so then most of us use the crankshaft key as the set location as it is usually located at the thickest part of the cam. Grind a tapered point of sorts on one end of each bolt. This tapered end goes up or the one that the spark will jump to the aluminum plate from. Thread one nut on the bolt push it thru the hole, place another nut on top, then when you get the distance you want, tighten the lower nut. Take an aluminum sheet and drill one hole in the center that will be used to attach the plate and the ground wire. Cut off the bolt head, deburr it so it will slide into the spark plug boot. You may want to use a black electricians tape or dark paper glued to the back side at the intended arc point so you can see the arc jump better. This unit has a threaded rod adjustment that has a turned end to match a spark plug outer end, a spring clamp that can be attached to a wire or small bolt head for a ground. This rod can be adjusted to what ever your heart desires. The body is made of a plastic so it does not short things out. Well this may be true with a car or a outboard that has electric start, but for a person to try to use a rope start, watch the gap at the same time, not very easy.
In use of the home made tester, pull the spark plug boots, position them on the 2 protruding bolt ends, clamp the alligator clamp onto an exposed bolt head. Pull the starter rope as if you were trying to start the motor.
If it only jumps on one then you have a coil bad or possibly a bad ground connection at that coil, or even inside one of the rubber connectors or the spark plug boot. Car Quest tester STL Spark alone does not do any good if you have a scored cylinder or bad rings creating low compression that also leads to fouled spark plugs. Also if you get intermittent spark or only firing on one cylinder, you may have a bad connection at the boot end where the boot goes over the spark plug. In the photo below the insulation has been stripped off showing the arcing from the contact point to the wire. A little may be normal, but once it gets this bad, you loose conductibility. If you have done most of your suspected repairs and still no fire when you pull the starter rope, you may try pulling the starter rope in the dark of night, as any leakage or jumping of spark will show up way better in the dark. Another thing, rather rare occurrence, but it is possible that your kill button may be defective and grounding out internally. This would be more likely to happen on the and later motors using the "Man Overboard kill type switch" that uses the lanyard, because there is a internal spring pushing the button out. If something plastic internally broke, the button my still be out, but shorted out internally. For a test for this, pull the connector for the black with a yellow striped wire and disconnect this wire. This may also be hard to trace this wire down on the post 93 models because of the wiring harness inside the tiller handle and being buried under and around the powerhead. This would probably not be the case with the earlier pre kill buttons that are on the front cowling. If the motor is between a tothe ignition system is the older points and condenser type. These coils and condensers can get weak over time, may have spark, but a yellow instead of the hotter blue. Or the motor may start, run for a few minutes, then die. What may be happening is that internally in the condenser which is simply thin aluminum strips wrapped with waxed paper between them into a coil that is encapsulate into a metal container the waxed paper may be slightly deteriorated, when the energy is created inside the canister, the aluminum expands slightly, where the paper is thin, will short out. After the aluminum strip cools, and pulls back the motor may restart. If this is the case you may need to replace the condensers, and possibly the points as if the condensers are failing, they put lots of undue burning on the points, but the coils hardly ever go bad unless the outer insulation cranks so bad that they arc out to the base. Another thing that can happen on this style of ignition is that if the individual coils may be getting weak, do give off a spark to ground, but with everything together, may not have enough juice to fire the spark plug UNDER compression. This however is just a patch and not the cure to the problem as it will also make the timing off.
In the photo below you will see the blue insulation worn off one of the points wires. The gray color at the point of the arrow is the wire itself. This motor ran fine until the wire insulation got worm through, then it ran only on one cylinder. Rotate the crankshaft so that the 1 piston is at Top Dead Center. This can be verified by pulling 1 TOP spark plug, by using a flashlight, rotate the crankshaft clockwise until you can see the piston come up, go slowly, backtrack just after it starts down. The word TOP on the timing cam should be at or near the location of the points rub bar.
I have seen some not quite there and nearer the SET position. You can not do much about this however. Without changing the twist grip location, move the crankshaft to the SET position. Set the 1 points on the RH side of the motor with a feeler gage at. The points surface should be free of oxidation, not have corrosion. If the points are set off by. So it is important to get both set of points set as close to the prescribed setting as possible. One thing that you may run into on the older motor replacement points, the felt for the cam oiler can be too long in some sets of points. If it extends under the rubbing block area, this can hold the points open. Some of the older cams have a spot imprinted that says "top" while others usually later motors says "set". The wires need to be isolated from the frame by the fiber washers in there. If the points do not look corroded or pitted, take a piece of business card with some rubbing alcohol or electrical contact cleaner and run it through the points once or twice. If you have replaced the condensers and it refuses to spark, you may have gotten a couple of bad condensers. Try your original ones just for giggles. Move the flywheel clockwise by hand and look for any jumping of the plate. Pull the starter rope, check to see if when the flywheel is rotating that the timing plate moves sideways when the flywheel is rotating. If it can wobble or move laterally, it WILL change the point gap! Make sure once the plate is stabilized that the points are set at EXACTLY degrees opposite each other. This is Top Dead Center for that cylinder. Set your points timing for both cylinders this way so that you get each timed to the piston TDC as the timing mark on the crankshaft is not precise enough. Those point ignitions systems worked alright when everything was right but did have issues with fire if things were off even a little bit I have also encountered one of these older engines that even after sandblasting a set of spark plugs, I could not get a test firing to ground across the contacts. I did however notice that there was a couple of smaller sparks jumping down inside the plug. Replaced it with another sandblasted and cleaned plug, but still only run on one cylinder. I bought new spark plugs and it started.
I came across a puzzling situation in a motor which had electric starting charging coils, when I replaced the points and condenser, I lost fire to 2 cylinder. Upon investigating, I found that these aftermarket points were not really compatible with the one of the electric start charge coils. Number 1 points has lots of room as seen in the photo below. The points spring tension retaining screw protruded so far out that it grounded out against the coil body. I even tried to slightly bend the point wear arm, but could not get it far enough without ruining it, to clear the screw head on the back side. Next I cut the top out of a plastic margarine tub to form a insulator and siliconed this plastic in place against the coil body. Just this clearance may have been OK, but this provided a greater degree of isolation. First pull, it started and runs OK afterwards. The red arrow indicates where shorted out screw head is. The arrow tip is actually on the silicone with the plastic just below it. Another thing to look at are ANY wiring connections. You may have to do a continuity test on each wire. On one motor again the I found the wires coming from the points to the coils outside the flywheel area had corrosion, would only allow the test light to come on if the connections were twisted just right during the testing. I then replaced the old quick connectors with the newer "bullet type". On these old points type check any solder connection, as the solder may look OK, but the wire may be frayed below and lack enough wire to conduct enough fire. It may also be well to consider checking the wiring connection inside the spark plug boot, out of sight - out of mind. This might also be the time to replace the spark plug wires if you are having ignition problems. However if you do, it will is important to use marine copper wire instead of the newer automotive carbon type wire. Also there is one or two wires going to the kill button. The red arrow points to the connector to the kill button. It appears that when activating the kill button, you just short the 2 coils together, killing the motor. Of the other two wires, one, a black wire is grounded usually under a coil bolt. One wire from the kill button is also grounded under the same coil bolt. The wires from the kill button on this motor happen to be dark blue. Some years of motors may be slightly different, but basically you are shorting the powerpack to ground, killing the motor. Check these to be sure the kill button is not stuck and shorting out if it is the front cowling mounted version, or that the lanyard clip is in place if the later lanyard type kill switch on the tiller handle. It could be either the powerpack or the coil, so try both. Another thing if it dies after it has started or ran a while, do a spark test when it does not want to restart.
I suspect you have an electrical problem, and more than likely at either the coils or powerpack. When these electrical components get older and start to fail, at a cold condition, the internals are cool when the windings are separated by insulation. And it just gets worse. Any good marine repair shop should be able to do a test on either of these components. OMC lists the same powerpacks for the 2 cylinder motors as being used for from 6hp to 55hp motors made from to However the wiring boot may be different depending on the year of usage, as the kill button wire is separate on the older models. To do more testing, using an inductive automotive type timing light, alternately clamp on to each plug wire and watch the flash. If it skips and dims, you still have problems with the ignition. I had one motor that would not fire on one cylinder when it was cold, but after it ran a while the other cylinder would kick in then would then run OK. This is just opposite of what you would expect if a coil or electrical component was bad. I had changed plugs more than once, tightened the coil bolts, checked the high tension plug wires, checked the connector wires for corrosion among other things and was about ready to tear my hair out. I even cut a fishing trip short by a few days because I did not want to get stranded in the bay with the wind blowing. It was traced to 2 coil not having any output to the spark plug. I finally swapped coil input wires from the powerpack in the rubber amphenol plug connector boot, electronically changing the coils. The 2 plug now fired, but the plug wire from the old 1 coil was now dead. I then replaced the wires to original positions and replaced that 2 coil with another known good coil. Same results, no fire to 2 plug, so the original 2 coil was OK. This then was starting to point to the powerpack, but when they do go bad, they usually just die for both coils. It was getting late in the evening and I wanted to get the problem taken care of and with the motor still running on the muffs, I just happened to look at the side of the powerhead, there was blue arcing off the bottom powerpack bolt. Upon checking, I found the bolts holding the powerpack to the block were loose, not creating a good enough ground. Why this condition only effected the 2 coil, I will never know. In my mind I knew it in all probability was a bad ground, but where, I would probably never have checked that bolt without seeing the arcing in the dim light. The good Lord does look out for us shade tree mechanics sometimes. On the above motor after tightening all the ground wires, this motor still acted up as before. All the tests then pointed to the powerpack. I bit the bullet, bought a new powerpack and problem solved. I suspect that since it took many fishing trips over a period of 6 months, thinking I had found the problem after each time, that one output wire or diode from the powerpack had become internally partially shorted out because of the loose ground under the one coil.
The Johnson sat for 3 years, but would not produce any spark when tried to start it then. This motor appeared to be running fine when it was removed from the boat. Testing was done and the powerpack was bad. I replaced the powerpack. I then traded it off to a friend who lived near the beach, only to have it die on the new owner. No spark on either plug. When I got the motor back it was really hot weather, I let it set for a while as I loaned him a different motor. From all indications it pointed to the new powerpack failing.
Check the bottom plug for spark, it was OK. Maybe the could were not being grounded properly, so when I pulled them off this model had both coils made together as a dually unit. What I found was the back side of the coil where it was sealed around the hard rubber housing, that the rubberish sealing had came loose and even had evidence of something being corroded inside, forcing the sealant out and away from the body. My guess was that in his high salt air moisture environment that there was just enough moisture inside to short things out. For those of you who use a remote control and therefore a electric choke, this electrical diagram for the electric starter is not shown, apparently the factory considers this an alteration of sorts. All I can say is that the electric choke is simply a wire from the switch, relaying power to the choke solenoid. If that is OK then check that the solenoid is grounded. The thumbnail photos below are for the OMC 9. Electrical diagram for manual starter motor. Electrical diagram for electric starter motor. Click on the above thumbnails for larger picture. For remote controls that use a key type ignition switch, the letters on the rear of this switch being M and possibly two of these M lugs used for the kill circuit, will as above, have either both black or a black and a black with yellow stripe. B will be the battery wire and be red or red with a purple stripe. The S or start lug will have a yellow wire to the starter solenoid. I lug will be a hot 12 volt wire to anything needing power and will be a purple wire. C the electric choke will be a purple with a white stripe wire. On OMC motors made from and on which have the kill button on the tiller handle, if either of the clips shown below are missing the motor will not start, kind of like turning a key OFF. There are 2 variations of this, the one shown is from a to aboutwhich as it on the end of the twist grip throttle handle. This part is also known in the parts manual as Restart Clip. Outboard motors used in certain applications, e. For applications such as these, the cut-off switch can be disabled by replacing the clip and lanyard assembly A with the OMC Clip Assembly Bas shown. The clip B will disable the cut-off switch while retaining the "PUSH" Stop Button feature.
If the motor application changes, reactivate the cut-off switch feature by replacing the clip B with the original clip and lanyard assembly A ". But then, if its still running good, leave it alone. You will find that about 8 out of ten stators will have that brown goo leaking out of them after a few years of heat. If you want to check the voltage to see if its up to par, check the AC voltage between each pair of brown wires going to the CDI. For motors to run, it has to have an uninterrupted supply of fuel AND air in the correct proportions. If all else fails, and the motor is in good shape, it should start by being artificially being fed fuel. First I would say, look closely at all the fuel line connectors, are they snapped onto the tank and motor correctly? If not, it can give you headaches. As said above, on any no start repair, LOOK HERE FIRST.
If this is the case, the motor may suck air into the fuel system, even to the point the motor will die. This can also be seen where a auxiliary motor is ran off the same main fuel tank. If the motor has sat for a while and just pumping the fuel primer bulb does not get the motor at least sputtering after you have concluded that the electronics are OK, have a squirt oil can with the proper gas to oil mix, try to start it by squirting fuel into the air intake of the carburetor as you pull the manual starter rope. A squirt or 2 of starting fluid into the air intake is plenty. It is better to use a plastic pump lever bottle with gasoline mix in it. Before we get to involved here, maybe we should consider the fuel and type of fuel being used. The OMC service manual from states that any fuel that is designed to be used in an automobile can be used for these motors. In recent years with the advent of unleaded fuel it is preferred, and NON-ETHANOL is highly preferred. Their recommended minimum octane rating is 86, up to This was never even thought of at the time these motors were designed. From what is being pushed now for marine usage it is not good for the older fuel lines, it even loosens gunked up fuel tank debris, creates problems inside the carburetors, plus absorbing moisture from the marine air into the fuel tanks. And any old stale fuel would also not be recommended. First to check would be is the fuel fresh and clean? If the tank could have sat outside or in a boat in the weather, there could be some leakage around the cap, or gauge where water may have snuck in. If any water is in with the gas, you will NOT have a smooth running motor, maybe even could not keep it running if you got it started as water intrusion in the carburetor will not flow through the carburetor jets. Now if you tried to start it with contaminated fuel, you have that bad fuel inside the carburetor, which will need to be torn apart and cleaned. It you live in a area where fuel contamination can be a problem, it may be best to install a water separator filter system in the fuel line. The primer bulb is a manual fuel pump of sorts. When you operate the primer bulb or manual fuel pump when the carburetor fills with fuel, it should start. The fuel pump does not come into play after the starting.
If you get a gurgling noise the primer bulb as you are squeezing, it is usually not functioning right. There are two spring loaded check valves in this bulb, one one each end, where the one closest to the tank stops the fuel from flowing back into the tank, while the one toward the motor retains what is in the bulb until you squeeze it again. A spring could have become broken or dislodged, breaking the chain of the bulb sucking from the tank and then pushing to to the motor. With the motor running your bulb is no more than a fat piece of fuel hose so you can expect it to become soft at that point. After the motor has run enough to remove this pressure of the internal fuel you have pumped, the bulb should become soft as the fuel flows thru it. If primer bulb NEVER gets hard, you could have a air leak in the fuel line up to the fuel pump, it is possible that the fuel is shooting into the crankcase, or the carburetor float needle is not seating, but if this is the case then fuel should be leaking out of the carburetor. Some motors will have a fuel primer system instead of a choke. The incoming main line goes as before, directly to the carburetor, but with the Teed line to the primer. For some, the main fuel line goes directly to the carburetor and then a separate line from the bottom of the carburetor bowl goes to the primer. From the primer body, another line goes into the carburetor throat or into the intake manifold, bypassing the carburetor. Like 1 Show likes. Golfstream Гольфстрим Инструкция, паспорт к мотору Гольфстрим Golfstream T 2 BMS https: HIDEA Хайди Инструкция, паспорт к лодочному мотору Хайди HIDEA HD HDX Инструкция, паспорт к лодочному мотору HDX T2. MTR Marine Инструкция, паспорт к лодочному мотору MTR Marine T 2. NEXUS Инструкция, паспорт к лодочному мотору NEXUS T T3. PARSUN Парсун Инструкция, паспорт к лодочному мотору PARSUN Парсун T 2. SAIL Сейл Инструкция, паспорт к лодочному мотору SAIL Сейл OTH 9. SAILOR Сейлор Инструкция, паспорт к лодочному мотору SAILOR Сейлор GM T 2. SEA-PRO Сиа-Про Инструкция, паспорт к лодочному мотору SEA-PRO Сиа-Про Т 3S https: TROLL Тролл Инструкция, паспорт к лодочному мотору TROLL 2. YAMABISI Ямабиси Инструкция, паспорт к лодочному мотору Yamabisi T2 BMS https: Библиотека инструкции, паспорта, справочная литература на лодки:
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